1. Keep it simple
As a rule it’s best to keep things as simple as possible. In the studio this may mean using two lights (or even just one) rather than three, or including fewer props, but it’s also a useful thing to remember when composing landscapes and still life.
Avoid complex, confusing scenes and look for compositions that have clean lines and nicely spaced elements.
When large format cameras were more common, many photographers claimed the fact that they showed the scene upside down and laterally reversed helped them improve their composition because they stopped seeing the subject as a recognisable object and instead saw a collection of shapes to be photographed in an attractive arrangement.
Modern cameras show the image correctly orientated (usually even if you review a shot and turn the camera upside-down) so you have to use your imagination to see images as shapes and patterns of light rather than objects.
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2. Check the details
Whatever you’re photographing, it’s important to check all the details in the scene before you take the shot.
If you’re shooting a model, for example, check that there’s isn’t a stray strand of hair cutting across an eye and that jewellery is correctly positioned and any clasps are hidden.
Also look for creases in the background. When you’re shooting a landscape, look around for litter and move it out of the shot, check of bits of foliage sticking into the frame and any clutter that should be excluded from the image.
Don’t be afraid to rearrange a few things; a colourful leaf in the foreground will look much better if it’s the right way up for instance.
3. Look around the edges
Photographers with cameras that have viewfinders that display 100% of the field of view have an advantage here because they can see the very edge of the imaging frame before they take a shot.
Those with cameras that have viewfinder that cover less than 100% need to be extra vigilant, having a good look at the scene to check for objects that they can’t see in the viewfinder but that may creep into the shot.
Live View technology can be helpful with this because the screen usually shows 100% of the scene allowing you to check the edges.
4. Shoot in raw format
Many novice photographers are afraid to shoot in raw format because the files need to be processed before they can be shared or printed.
However, it’s not tricky and your camera is supplied with software that will allow you to do what you need.
Image editing packages such as Adobe Elements, Lightroom or Photoshop also enable raw files to be processed and saved as JPEGs for easy sharing.
The benefit of raw files is that they have the maximum amount of data so if you get the exposure a little wrong you can correct the brightness of the image more effectively.
You also have much greater control over noise reduction which means you can decide how much detail you are prepared to sacrifice to conceal any noise.
In addition, raw files have greater dynamic range than JPEGs, which means they have a greater range of tones and are less likely to have burned out highlights and blocked up shadows.
SEE MORE: 13 camera settings every new photographer should know
5. Wait for the light to be right
The right light is essential to a successful photograph, but the definition of ‘right’ varies depending upon what you are shooting and what you want to say about it.
The soft almost shadowless light of overcast days can be ideal for macro or still life photography, but landscapes often need a little low sun to bring them to life.
However, if you want to make monochrome conversions, wild and stormy skies can give a sense of drama.
While there are occasions when you’ll come across a scene that you need to wait for the light to come good, there are times when the nature of the light helps you decide what you want to shoot.
6. Get closer
One of the most important early lessons that photographers need to learn is to get closer to the subject.
Many novices shoot from too far away leaving empty space above and below their subject.
Whatever you’re shooting, try to fill the frame with it and make every part of the scene count.
Foreground interest is often mentioned in respect to landscape images, but it’s also useful in other genres such as still life where it fills a blank area and draws the viewer’s eye into the shot.
It’s also useful for giving a sense of depth and scale.
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7. Think before you shoot
Sometimes the action can unfold so quickly that you hardly have time to remove the lens cap before you need to start shooting, but where possible give your shot some thought.
Think about the most important elements of the scene and decide what it is that you want to say about them with your image.
Also consider the exposure and decide whether you want to freeze or blur any movement and if you should use shallow to extensive depth of field.
If possible, look around your subject for the best angle, looking at how the light hits it and how it interacts with its background.
SEE MORE: 6 ways professional photographers use their cameras
8. Underexpose rather than overexpose
There are plenty of exceptions to this rule, but because blown out highlights cannot be recovered when there is any doubt about the correct exposure, it is usually best to underexpose rather than overexpose.
Underexposed areas can be brightened post-capture, but bear in mind that this enhances noise so you don’t want to shift the exposure dramatically.
9. Don’t be afraid to bump up the sensitivity
In most cases it’s better to have a sharp image with a bit of noise than a blurred one with no noise.
If the subject needs a fast shutter speed in low light to get it sharp then there’s no option but to crank up the sensitivity.
If you take our advice and shoot raw images you can adjust the level of noise reduction that is applied to conceal noise while retaining detail.
10. Take lots of photographs
There is no better way to learn about photography and improve your shots than taking lots of pictures